Building the 20mm Atlantic Wall Bunker: A Step-by-Step Guide
By Sarissa Precision Ltd – Sarissa Precision Limited | Published: 2026-10-23
Category: How-to Guides
Learn how to assemble the 20mm Atlantic Wall Bunker from Sarissa Precision. This guide walks you through each step, from dry-fitting to painting, with tips to avoid common mistakes.
Quick answer
Assemble the 20mm Atlantic Wall Bunker by dry-fitting each laser-cut MDF piece, gluing with PVA, and finishing with a simple paint scheme. The kit builds into a sturdy wargaming terrain piece suitable for 20mm or 1/72 scale games.
Why choose the 20mm Atlantic Wall Bunker
This kit represents the concrete bunkers that housed anti-tank guns along the Atlantic Wall during WWII. The laser-cut MDF pieces fit together precisely, but because the kit is supplied unassembled and unpainted, you have full control over the finish. The main trade-off is that MDF requires careful gluing and sanding to hide the layered edges if you want a smooth concrete look.
Assembly steps
- 1. Dry-fit all parts: Lay out every piece from the kit and test-fit them without glue. This shows you how the walls, roof, and any internal braces align. Pay attention to tabs and slots — they are designed to be snug but not forced. If a tab is too tight, lightly sand it; never force it or you may split the MDF.
- 2. Glue the main structure: Apply PVA wood glue to the tabs and slots of the base and side walls. Assemble the box, then add the rear wall and any internal supports. Use a square to keep corners at 90° while the glue sets. Clamp or weight the assembly for 15–20 minutes. Wipe away excess glue immediately with a damp cloth — dried glue is hard to sand off MDF.
- 3. Attach the roof and gun embrasure: Once the main box is dry, glue the roof piece in place. If the kit includes a separate embrasure or gun port, attach it now. Check that the opening aligns with the interior space so a model gun can sit correctly. Test-fit the roof before gluing — sometimes the tabs need a slight trim to sit flush.
- 4. Fill and sand seams: Use fine-grit sandpaper to smooth the MDF edges and any visible layer lines. For a concrete texture, mix a thin filler (spackle or modeling paste) and apply it to the joints. Let it dry, then sand again lightly. Do not over-sand the surface detail — MDF has a soft top layer that can lose crisp edges if you rub too hard.
- 5. Prime and paint: Spray the entire bunker with a matte gray or concrete-colored primer. Once dry, apply a base coat of medium gray. Dry-brush a lighter gray to bring out the edges, then add dark washes to recesses for depth. Optionally, add rust streaks or chipping with a sponge. Let each coat dry fully — MDF absorbs moisture, so rushing can cause the paint to lift later.
- 6. Base and integrate into terrain: If the kit does not include a base, glue the finished bunker onto a piece of MDF or plasticard. Add sand, static grass, or rubble around the edges to blend it into your gaming board. For a beach setting, use a mix of sand and small pebbles. Keep the base thickness under 3 mm so the bunker still fits on standard wargaming terrain tiles.
Product facts
- 20mm Atlantic Wall Bunker: Bunkers such as this were the linchpin of Rommel's 'Atlantic Wall', an extensive system of fortifications built between 1942 and 1944. This style of Atlantic Bunker was built to house anti-tank guns or artillery pieces and examples could be found along the entire coast of continental Europe and Scandinavia. Knowing the historical context helps you decide on weathering and camouflage colors, especially if you are building a diorama for a specific theatre or time period.

20mm Atlantic Wall Bunker
