Rooftop Dormer UPGRADE: Add Detail to MDF Roofs
By Sarissa Precision Ltd – Sarissa Precision Limited | Published: 2026-11-03
Category: How-to Guides
Turn a flat MDF roofline into a believable wargaming feature with the Rooftop Dormer UPGRADE. A practical dormer assembly guide covering test-fitting, gluing and roof placement.
Quick answer
Dry-fit both dormers before gluing, then fix each one to a flat section of roof so the window face sits proud of the tiles. The Rooftop Dormer UPGRADE gives you two dormers cut from 2mm MDF and 1mm greyboard, so you can add rooftop detail to an existing MDF building without rebuilding the roof.
Why a dormer upgrade is worth the extra step
A plain MDF roof reads as a flat plane from across the table. A dormer breaks that plane with a vertical face and a small window opening, which catches light and gives the eye a reason to stop. The effect is strongest on long roof runs where the silhouette is otherwise unbroken.
The trade-off is that dormers add fragile edges to a gaming piece. Keep them away from the roof edge where hands and dice land, and accept that the window face will need a little care during storage.
What the kit does and does not cover
The upgrade contains two dormers only. It does not include a roof, a building, or glazing, and the parts are supplied unassembled and unpainted. That keeps the cost low, but it means you need an existing roof to mount them on and your own glue and paint.
Because the kit mixes 2mm MDF with 1mm greyboard, the two materials behave differently when painted. The greyboard face absorbs paint faster and can swell slightly if over-wet, so seal it before adding colour.
Dormer assembly steps
- Dry-fit every joint: Push the MDF and greyboard parts together without glue. Check that the window face sits square and that the side pieces meet the roof slope without gaps. If a joint is tight, lightly sand the tab rather than forcing it; forced greyboard crushes and leaves a visible dent.
- Seal the greyboard face: Brush a thin coat of PVA mixed with water, or a hobby sealer, onto the 1mm greyboard surfaces. Let it dry fully before gluing the dormer together. Skipping this step lets paint soak in unevenly and can soften the greyboard edges.
- Glue the dormer body: Apply a small amount of wood glue to the tabs and assemble the dormer on a flat surface. Check the window opening is rectangular by sighting along the top edge. Wipe excess glue immediately; dried glue on MDF is hard to sand out of laser-cut detail.
- Mark the roof position: Set the assembled dormer on the roof and mark its outline with a pencil. Keep the dormer at least 10mm back from the roof ridge and eaves so it does not overhang. Check the mark from both sides of the roof; a dormer that looks centred from one angle can sit off-axis from another.
- Glue and weight the dormer: Apply glue to the base of the dormer and press it onto the marked position. Hold it for a minute, then weight it with a small bag of sand or a book until the glue sets. Do not rely on hand pressure alone; MDF joints creep while the glue is wet.
- Paint before final placement: Paint the dormer and roof separately if you can, then touch up the joint. Use a primer on the greyboard and a slightly thicker coat on the MDF edges. Painting after assembly risks paint bridging the window opening and softening the card face.
Product facts
- Rooftop Dormer UPGRADE: Laser cut from 2mm MDF and 1mm greyboard, supplied unassembled and unpainted. You get crisp edges but must allow drying time and paint the mixed materials separately for an even finish.
Rooftop Dormer UPGRADE - Rooftop Dormer UPGRADE: Contains 2x Dormers. Two dormers let you space them along a roof for balance, or keep one spare for a future building.
