MDF vs Resin Terrain: Which Should You Buy?
By Sarissa Precision Ltd – Sarissa Precision Limited | Published: 2026-10-16
Category: Comparisons
Compare laser-cut MDF terrain and resin scenery kits on durability, value, detail and weight so you can choose the right buildings for your tabletop.
Quick answer
Choose MDF terrain when you want affordable, lightweight buildings that are easy to store and carry, such as the Dutch / Belgian Two-Storey Townhouse (20mm) or the Colonial House. Choose resin scenery kits when you need maximum surface detail and heft for a fixed display board. For most players who transport their tables, MDF gives the better balance of value and practicality.
How the two materials actually differ on the table
MDF terrain is laser-cut from sheet material, so buildings arrive as flat parts that slot or glue together. That construction method keeps the kits light, stackable and inexpensive, and it suits modular townscapes where you want several buildings rather than one centrepiece. Resin scenery kits are cast in moulds, which captures finer surface texture and undercuts, but the material is heavier and more brittle, so a dropped piece can chip or shatter.
The practical difference shows up in handling. A laser-cut MDF building can be carried in a foam-lined box or a simple storage tub without much risk, while resin pieces usually need dedicated foam trays and careful packing. If your games happen at a club, a friend's house or a tournament, that transport question often matters more than the last 10% of surface detail.
Where MDF wins on cost and coverage
MDF terrain value comes from how much table coverage you get per pound or dollar. Because the kits are cut from sheet rather than cast individually, a townhouse or church costs a fraction of a comparable resin building. That means you can fill a 6x4 table with a believable street, a churchyard and a few outbuildings for the price of one or two large resin kits.
The trade-off is visible seam lines where parts meet and a plainer surface out of the box. You can close that gap with filler, textured paint and a decent paint job, but it is extra work you should factor in before buying.
Where resin earns its place
Resin scenery kits shine when a single piece needs to be the focal point of the board: a ruined shrine, a detailed fountain, a statue or a piece of scatter with deep relief. The casting process holds crisp edges and organic shapes that laser-cut sheet cannot reproduce, and the weight gives the piece a solid presence that stays put during play.
That detail comes with a cost. Resin is heavier to carry, more fragile in transit and generally more expensive per building. It also needs washing before painting to remove mould release agent, and any repairs are less forgiving than gluing a fresh MDF panel back into place.
Mixing both materials without a jarring table
You do not have to commit to one material. A common approach is to use MDF for the bulk of the townscape and resin for two or three hero pieces. The key is to unify the paint scheme: use the same primer, the same base colours and the same weathering powders across both materials so the eye reads them as one collection.
Keep scale consistent too. Check the stated dimensions of each kit against your figure scale before buying, because a 15mm church and a 20mm townhouse will look wrong side by side even if both are well painted.
Trade-offs at a glance
- Weight and transport: MDF buildings are light and stack flat between games; resin pieces are heavier and need padded storage. If you carry your terrain to a club, lean MDF.
- Surface detail: Resin casting captures fine texture and undercuts that laser-cut sheet cannot reproduce. Reserve resin for one or two centrepiece models.
- Cost per building: MDF kits are cut from sheet, so you get more buildings for the same spend than cast resin equivalents. Budget MDF for the town, resin for the focal point.
- Repair and durability: A damaged MDF panel can often be glued or replaced; chipped resin is harder to make good. Resin durability is about careful handling, not toughness.
Examples from the Sarissa Precision range
- Dutch / Belgian Two-Storey Townhouse (20mm): Dutch / Belgian Two-Storey Townhouse (20mm), supplied unassembled and unpainted in kit form, and fully interchangeable with other multi-level Dutch / Belgian 20mm range kits. Interchangeable levels let you reconfigure the same kit into different building heights, which stretches your terrain budget across multiple games.
- European Church (15mm): European Church (15mm) with strong Byzantine influences, dimensions approximately W55 x D75 x H145mm, supplied unassembled and unpainted with full instructions. The stated height makes it a genuine line-of-sight blocker rather than a flat footprint, so it changes how shooting works on the table.
- Colonial House: Colonial House in MDF with a removable roof and internal detail, dimensions approximately L155 x W300 x H130mm. A removable roof and interior let you place figures inside for objective games instead of treating the building as a solid block.
- Colonial Paddle Steamer: Colonial Paddle Steamer, described as suitable for African Colonial, Wild West or American Civil War settings, and suggested for use with a Wood Skiff for longer expeditions. A single kit that spans several periods gives better value than a period-specific piece you may only use in one campaign.
Which should you buy?
Choose MDF if you...
- Transport your terrain regularly or store it in a cupboard between games
- Want to cover a whole street or village without spending a fortune
- Are happy to fill seams and paint the model yourself
- Want modular kits that can be reconfigured, like the interchangeable Dutch / Belgian range
Choose resin instead if you...
- Need deep, organic surface detail on a single hero piece
- Are building a fixed display board that never leaves the house
- Do not mind washing, priming and carefully storing fragile models
- Only need one or two buildings rather than a full table
